Water and Wind Proof Fabric: Specs, Types, and Buying Guide

Best practical choice for water and wind proof fabric

If you want dependable protection in real rain and strong gusts, pick 3-layer waterproof-breathable fabric with a hydrostatic head ≥ 20,000 mm and wind permeability ≤ 1 CFM, and make sure the garment is fully seam-taped. This combination is what consistently holds up in sustained downpours while blocking wind chill.

For lighter use (short showers, commuting), a quality 2.5-layer shell at 10,000–15,000 mm can be enough—provided seams are sealed and the face fabric has a durable water repellent (DWR) finish. For high-output activities (fast hiking, cycling), prioritize breathability (RET/MVTR) as much as waterproofing.

• All-day rain + wind: 3-layer, HH ≥ 20,000 mm, wind ≤ 1 CFM, fully seam-taped.
• Mixed weather: 2.5-layer, HH 10,000–15,000 mm, critical seam tape minimum.
• Cold dry wind: windproof softshell can work, but it is not true waterproof fabric.

How waterproof and windproof performance is measured

Waterproof rating: hydrostatic head (HH)

Hydrostatic head is the height of a water column (in millimeters) the fabric resists before leaking. Higher numbers generally mean better water resistance, especially under pressure from shoulder straps or kneeling.

• Light rain: ~5,000 mm
• Steady rain (basic shell): ~10,000 mm
• Sustained downpour + pack straps: 20,000 mm+

Windproof rating: air permeability (CFM)

Windproofness is commonly described by air permeability, measured as CFM (cubic feet per minute) through a given area under a set pressure. Lower is more windproof.

• 0–1 CFM: effectively windproof (best for cold wind and high exposure)
• ~2–10 CFM: noticeably blocks wind but feels less “sealed” (often more breathable)
• 10+ CFM: not windproof; can be comfortable but won’t stop wind chill

Breathability: MVTR and RET

Water and wind proof fabric can still feel clammy if moisture can’t escape. Brands may publish MVTR (moisture vapor transmission rate) or RET (resistance to evaporative transfer). As a rule of thumb, lower RET and higher MVTR indicate better comfort during exertion.

Fabric types that deliver water and wind proof protection

Coated fabrics (PU-coated)

Polyurethane-coated textiles can be very waterproof for the money, but breathability varies widely. They’re common in budget rainwear and some workwear. If you sweat a lot, these may feel humid unless venting is excellent.

Membrane laminates (PTFE/PU membranes)

Laminated membranes are the classic solution for water and wind proof fabric: liquid water is blocked, wind is reduced to near-zero, and vapor can pass depending on membrane technology. In real use, face fabric wet-out and seam construction often matter as much as the membrane itself.

2-layer vs 2.5-layer vs 3-layer construction

• 2-layer: face + membrane; needs a loose liner. Comfortable, sometimes heavier.
• 2.5-layer: adds a printed “half layer” inside. Lighter, can feel clammy on bare skin.
• 3-layer: face + membrane + backer fabric. Most durable and stable under abrasion/straps.

Softshell “windproof” vs true waterproof

Many softshells are highly wind resistant and handle drizzle, but they are not reliably waterproof in steady rain. If the label doesn’t provide waterproof specs (or mentions only “water-resistant”), assume it’s not true water and wind proof fabric for heavy weather.

What actually makes a garment leak or feel cold

Seams and stitch holes

Even the best fabric fails if seams aren’t sealed. Stitching creates thousands of needle holes; seam tape (or seam sealing) is the standard fix. For real storms, fully seam-taped construction is a practical must.

Face fabric wet-out (DWR failure)

When the outer surface absorbs water, breathability drops and the shell feels colder. That “soaked” look can happen even when the membrane is still waterproof. Keeping DWR functional reduces wet-out and improves comfort.

Pressure points: straps, elbows, sitting

Water pressure increases under pack straps and when fabric is compressed. This is why 20,000 mm+ HH is a smart threshold for hiking, trekking, or any use with sustained pressure.

Spec targets by activity

Use the table as a filtering shortcut: if a product doesn’t state waterproofing, seam sealing, or wind performance, it’s hard to validate it as true water and wind proof fabric—especially for technical use.

A quick checklist before you buy

• Waterproof rating listed (HH) and appropriate to your use.
• Fully seam-taped for storm reliability (not just “critical seams”).
• Hood that adjusts at least at the crown and sides to seal wind-driven rain.
• Zippers: water-resistant zip or storm flap; chin guard to prevent irritation.
• Venting: pit zips, back vents, or two-way front zip for high-output use.

If you must compromise, it’s usually better to compromise slightly on waterproof number than on seam sealing and design details—because real leaks often start at construction points, not in the fabric panel.

Care and maintenance to keep fabric water and wind proof

Wash correctly (yes, washing helps)

Dirt, body oils, and sunscreen reduce breathability and make DWR fail faster. Washing with a technical cleaner (or mild detergent, no fabric softener) restores performance more often than people expect.

Reapply DWR when water stops beading

When water no longer beads on the outer surface, reproofing is due. A refreshed DWR reduces wet-out, helping your water and wind proof fabric feel warmer and less clammy in rain.

Field fixes

• Small puncture: repair tape patch on clean, dry fabric.
• Peeling seam tape: temporary tape fix, then professional reseal if needed.
• Leaking zipper area: check flap alignment and apply zipper care (cleaning/lube if applicable).

Common mistakes when choosing water and wind proof fabric

• Assuming “water-resistant” equals waterproof in sustained rain.
• Ignoring seam sealing—then blaming the fabric for leaks.
• Buying ultra-high HH numbers while neglecting breathability and venting (leading to sweat buildup).
• Skipping maintenance until DWR fails and the face fabric wets out.

The most reliable outcome comes from matching measurable specs to your scenario and verifying construction details. If you follow the earlier target—HH ≥ 20,000 mm, wind ≤ 1 CFM, and fully seam-taped—you’ll land on water and wind proof fabric that performs when the weather doesn’t.